Welcome to Porto! We have been living here for almost a month, and we love it! Porto really is a magical city. It is right up there with Venice, Italy, San Francisco, California, and New Orleans, Louisiana, among my favorite cities in the world. I could say that it is something of a mash-up of San Francisco with its hilliness and New Orleans with the old buildings and ironwork, but it is really unique. The Azueljos tiled buildings are beautiful, stunning, and numerous in the city. The architecture and artistry is a feast for the eyes.
When we moved to Portugal, we chose to live in Vila Nova de Gaia because it was a lot cheaper, near the beach, and a 15-minute car ride from Porto. The reality of it was that while Gaia is physically just across the river from Porto, it is so close and yet so far, as they say. Gaia is a world away from Porto in mentality. In fact, the city of Gaia’s motto is Todo um Mundo, meaning, all a world unto itself. That it is!
The locals have a saying here, Porto is Porto and Gaia is Gaia. After living in Gaia for a year and a half, now I fully understand this saying. Porto is a world-class city, and Gaia is more like a small town or village. This, even though it is physically bigger than Porto in size. Both have their pros and cons. We may be nearing retirement age, but we still want to be closer to the action of the city, as it turns out.
Now instead of having to take an Uber or walk for an hour to get to the metro, we are a 15-minute walk or metro ride from nearly everything. Including the above!
After a year and a half of living in Portugal, we are finally buying a place in Porto. Talk about an ordeal! Buying real estate is a big deal under any circumstances. But doing it in a foreign country and during the biggest pandemic since 1918 adds a whole new level of stress to the process. And I should know, I sold and taught real estate for 20 plus years in the states!
I have owned many properties, but never have I had such a hard time finding the right one. We must have seen 15 or more apartments before we said, this is the one! Of course, our parameters made it a challenge. We needed more space than our bank account could really afford. Oh, and wanting to be centrally located and preferably in Porto added to the challenge.
We have been in Vila Nova de Gaia for the past 1.5 years, and it is nice enough, but it is as expensive as Porto and a lot more rustica, shall we say. We are talking farm animals here. And excessively barking dogs everywhere. I guess if you don´t mind roosters, chickens, and geese, incessant dog barking shouldn´t bother you. Right. When people think of cities in Europe, they generally think of old buildings. And there are certainly plenty of those. However, new construction is booming in Portugal. So, our pad is all new inside, completely remodeled, and the outside of the building is being resurfaced as well. It quite a bit smaller than we are used to, but being in the city is worth it. And we lucked out and got a great deal on it. So, it´s good bye Gaia and hello Porto! And, there will be some delicious local bubbles in our future!
We just have to survive a week or so in an Airbnb that is a fourth-floor walk-up since our psychotic land-lady won´t give us two more days, and the movers couldn´t accommodate us on the day we should be moving out. Bugger. No problem. At least, we will be in Porto away from the constantly barking dogs! With fresh territory to explore, it will be nice to be back in the city. So, onward and upward, Porto, here we come!
Portugal is famous for its Port wines and Vinho Verde. Port wine is an entire subject unto itself. Port is a fortified wine which means that it has a higher alcohol content than most wines. Usually, around 20% alcohol by volume. Generally speaking, Port is considered a dessert wine. However, vintage Ports can be had like unfortified wines and paired with meals.
An authentic Port wine must come from the Douro Valley in northern Portugal. The Douro is one of the most stunning wine growing regions in the world. And, it is one of the only regions in the world where foot-stomping is still used to press the grapes. Port wine is versatile and delicious. You should try it if you have not already! It is not just for old rich guys anymore!
A recent trend in the Douro is the making of quality table wines. Here is where Portuguese wines are the underdogs of world wines. They have quality and diversity that is remarkable. However, most of the world is unaware of this. I am here to tell you that Portuguese red and white table wines are fantabulous!
And that brings us to Vinho Verde, which literally means green wine. Green meaning young in this case. Vinho Verde is historically a light white wine that has a little spritz to it and can be a little on the sweet side. It has become more and more popular in the US as a crushable summer white. Here’s a little secret, Vinho Verde comes in a variety of styles, including dry and red! Most of the red Vinho Verde stays in Portugal and it is too bad because it is delicious.
So, your first step in getting to know the wines of Portugal is to get yourself some Port and a good Vinho Verde! Since it is nearly summer, may I suggest a dry white port to start, which you should use to make yourself a port and tonic. Garnish with a slice of orange. Enjoy!
Here’s some of what I’ve been reading in the news from the states: 38% of Americans are avoiding Corona Mexican beer because of the name! Also, people are avoiding Chinese food because of the connection between the virus and its country of origin. WOW!
Some of the things I’ve been seeing online have only reinforced the contention that the level of stupidity has gone off the charts stateside. Here are a couple more headlines out there right now: Why America’s Virus Response Looks Like a Patchwork, this from the New York Times, mind you. Well, Captain Obvious, could it be that America is a patchwork of states that all have different rules? And if you don’t know this you might want to go back and study your American history. Just saying.
Also, Infected People Without Symptoms Might be Driving the Spread of the Corona Virus. This one from CNN. Yup, you heard right. Now, I am not a science type by any stretch of the imagination but, if I was a betting person, I would bet big that people who are infected and not showing symptoms are driving the spread of this new virus.
Think about your basic cold viruses, just from personal experience I know that when I start coming down with a common cold, I am in denial about it. Oh, I’m just tired… Meanwhile, I’m out and about probably infecting every other person with which I come into contact. I guess only time will tell if this is the case and the big CV is transmitted in a similar manner.
In the meantime, people are reacting like the dumb, panicky, dangerous animals that they are, buying out basics at the grocery store so that people who might really need said basics can’t get them. Amazing and sad but true to form, people are reacting with a panicked herd mentality.
But enough of CV-19 and the blatant stupidity that is a rampant contagion worse than the virus. It is funny how ahead of the curve we are, already working from home. We’ve been home workers for over a year now and have become used to our own company for the most part. We still have to walk the dog but now taking walks is our main form of entertainment outside of the house. It’s not so bad really. It helps if you have a hermit kind of mentality to begin with, I guess, which I do.
It is almost spring and all of the trees are blooming here in the Porto area and the air is redolent of the white Jasmine that grows in the area. Nature says, silly humans, life goes on. And so should we, albeit with the utmost caution. Stay well everyone!
After travelling for the better part of September, we are now about 75% of the way toward our goal of moving to Portugal. I went solo since it was much cheaper that way, and someone had to hold down the fort and watch the Jiver, our precious soccer paws.
I spent ten days and about $1,800 for airfare, food and Airbnb to accomplish three goals: find a place to live in Porto, get an n.i.f. number, which is a Portuguese tax ID number, and open a bank account. So, here’s the thing: getting the NIF number is not easy. You must have a reference in Portugal and if you don’t know anyone there, good luck with that! And when I say reference, I don’t mean someone who’ll say you are OK (though you will need that too), but someone who is willing to be financially responsible for you should you default on anything. What you need is a procurador fiscal, or financial guarantor. (I learned these details as I went.)
After two days of spinning my wheels, I started to freak out. How in the hell was I going to do any of this?! Finally, I found a couple of sites online for the sale and rental of apartments. Idealista had plenty of offerings, most of which were out of our price range. But I found a few that might work, so I sent messages asking if I could see them. While I waited for a response regarding seeing some apartments…
I went to Santander bank, which is recommended for expats, and they told me I would need the tax ID number and an address before I could open an account. So, the next morning I went to the financial services office and they told me that I would need a reference in Portugal and an address there before they could issue me an NIF number. Ugh. Frustration is my business! I had a reference in my friend who let me use her address in Lisbon to apply for a visa online, but that was not enough. Add to that the fact that she is moving back to the States in October, and I am now seriously S.O.L.
The funny thing was that I got words of encouragement whenever I was dejected all along the way. After striking out at the financial services office, I went to breakfast at a place called Mesa 325. A great place to go if you are ever in the Bonfim neighborhood of Porto, which is where I was staying. There was a sign on the wall that read: Everything is going to be OK. EGBOK, thanks, I needed that! And the overnight oats served with yogurt and fruit is delicious!
The next few days I looked at three listings. The first was in a neighborhood in Porto called Casa da Musica. Ok, I thought, I like the sound of that! I took the metro over and sadly; the place was a dump for $850 Euros per month. (My friend was not wrong, Porto is expensive!)
Then, I lined up a couple of showings in Vila Nova de Gaia. Gaia is across the Douro river from Porto. It is where they store the port wine for ageing. It is about a fifteen minute walk from downtown Porto and is beautiful. The first apartment was it! Three bedrooms, 1200 square feet, and a km from the beach for $650 Euros per month in a nice quiet neighborhood. Now we’re talking! The entry has wall paper that looks like a bad 70s acid flashback, but that can easily be changed. Otherwise it was a good deal compared to what I had seen in Porto proper. The Remax agent that showed it to me has become our fairy Godfather. Since we couldn’t even sign a lease agreement legally without the NIF number, he got on the phone until he found someone who could get it for us. He took a picture of my passport and I got a picture of Joe’s for him and he said we’d talk the next day.
He texted me the next morning and said, “Great news, you both now have NIF numbers! He got the Re-max company’s attorney to agree to be our fiscal guarantor and overnight we got our tax ID numbers. Mind you, it will cost us 100 Euros per month until we get our permanent ID cards. He assures me that it won’t take more than a couple of months and will help us when we get there.
The housing market is so tight in the Porto area that I had to agree to pay a year in advance and sign a three-year contract to secure the place over other applicants. I was perfectly happy to pay a year of rent in advance and, having been in real estate myself for many years, know that everything else is negotiable, so I signed the lease agreement. At which point I was informed that after a year we can renegotiate the deal. Once I left Rui’s office, I went to Millennium BCP bank, which he recommended, and opened an account. Armed with the NIF document and an address, I could now open an account.
Now, I could return to BFE, USA and finish preparing for our visa appointment in San Francisco. Whew. That was a wild ride. Many thanks to my Airbnb hosts for guiding me and helping me out when there was a taxi strike on the day I returned to Lisbon to catch my flight back to the states! The Portuguese people are wonderfully friendly and helpful, and I can’t wait to live there. But we still have a long way to go.
Admittedly, with a two week visit to Portugal we have barely scratched the surface of places in the country where we would like to be. But between Lisbon and Porto we really liked Porto the best. They even have a few craft breweries. They remind me of where Denver was with microbreweries 20 years ago. Cool spots, good beer and so much potential! Nortada was our favorite. It reminded me of The Rock Bottom Brewery when it was new. Nortada is brand new and if you like craft beer you should check it out if you are ever in Porto. It is located right in the center of the city and not only are the brews good, the staff is very friendly and knowledgeable. Portuenese Beer Factory is its formal name and it is located at: 210 Rua de Sa da Bandeira, 4000-427, Porto Portugal. Their website is: https:// loja.fcpornuenese.pt.
Did I mention our criteria for a place to relocate? Great food, wine and weather are foremost. So, we add beer and we are there in Porto. But what about the city’s namesake drink? Port: it’s not just for after dinner anymore! Port is a fortified wine that is amazing in its versatility. Not just a sweet after dinner drink, it comes in many forms and white port is one of them.
We visited Barros port house and got to sample a 30-year-old white port. Dangerously delicious is a phrase that comes to mind. A little sweet with a plethora of flavors that go on for days. Floral peach nose with flavors of caramel and lightly nutty flavors. Wow, it was so good that even though we were tasting many ports vintage and otherwise we had to drink this one.
As beverage pros when one tastes a lot of alcohol one spits so as not to get deliriously drunk! And Port is no slouch in the ABV (alcohol by volume) department coming in at 16-20% alcohol. It is fortified with brandy which came about to preserve it on the long trips overseas to Britain where it became popular in the 1700s. It is the third oldest protected wine region in the world after Tokai in Hungary (1730) and Chianti in Italy (1716). In 1756 the General Company of Viticulture of the Upper Douro or Douro Wine Company was founded to guarantee the quality of the product and fair pricing for consumers. The making of and history of Port is a study unto itself. Check it out on that Google thing. I hear it is catching on!
Back to the drinking part…Dry white port makes an excellent aperitif. On the rocks with a twist it is super refreshing in the summer. There are plenty of great port cocktails to try as well. See any good bar book for recipes.
Our VIP tour of Barros was fabulous, fun and informative! In addition to the white port we got to try several vintage and single vineyard ports, all of which were outstanding. Because they are fortified, good port will age well for decades.
By the time we finished our tour it was lunch time and our uber driver had recommended Porto Cruz as a good place to eat. They have a beautiful 4th floor dining room with a view of the city of Vila Nova de Gaia which is across the river from Porto and is where all the port houses age their wines. Once we were seated a server came over with a bottle and asked if we were driving? We answered no, and he poured us a glass of chilled white port. Again, off dry and a perfect aperitif. Is there no end to the magic deliciousness?! I hope not!
Our first full day in the city of Porto was a Sunday, so we followed the lead of the locals and went looking for a place to have brunch. One of the regional dishes is the Francesinha, and after scouting out a few possibilities we landed at a place with an inviting patio that offered some good-looking food. The funny thing about restaurants in Portugal and other parts of Europe is that they have pictures of all the food outside instead of a simple menu, like we do here in the States. It strikes one as fast food like, because that is where we see it here, but all the restaurants do it over there. Makes sense really, especially in towns where there are people visiting for all over the world. So, don’t let that throw you, even the nicer places have pics of their dishes posted outside.
Wikipedia lists the Francine, (as I like to call it for short) as a “sandwich” originally from Porto but it is really a unique dish all its own. It translates to little Frenchie, and if you are vegetarian or vegan you might want to stop reading now! Here’s what it is: a large slab of bread topped with wet cured ham, Portuguese linguica sausage, steak or roast meat and a copious amount of melted cheese. But wait, there’s more! The bread, meat and cheese are served swimming in a tomato beer sauce and served with French fries to dip in said sauce. The Francesinha is a gut bomb extraordinaire. Perfect hangover food.
Now, I should mention that normally, I would not touch food like this with a ten-foot cattle prod, being something of a health freak, but of course, we had to try it, being the signature dish of Porto. Yeah, it was awesomely delicious. I can’t believe I ate the whole thing, that’s how good it was. We tried the Francine another time during our time in Porto and they do vary from restaurant to restaurant. For me, the secret is having really fresh, crisp fries for the sauce. As crazy as it sounds, it was magically delicious and didn’t weigh me down as much as I expected. Could have something to do with all the walking we did. In any case, when in Porto: try the Francesinha or little Frenchie, Francine!
After such an excellent brunch walking is certainly in order. One of the most beautiful visuals in Porto is the tile work on some of the buildings. There are entire scenes depicted in blue and white tile all over town. One of the best examples of this tile can be seen in the Sao Bento train station in downtown Porto. The lobby of this station is a masterpiece of tile art.
After four days in Lisbon we took the train to Porto. We did have a little miscommunication with our cab driver who thought we wanted to go to the aeroPORTO! When we realized that we were almost to said airport, we told him that we wanted to take the train, trem, trem! To Porto, muita Obrigada! (Thank you very much!)
No biggie, only about 15 minutes lost there. We stopped for um café (a coffee. Must have coffee in the AM!) and made our way to the gate for the train to Porto. It is about a three-hour trip on the express train which is very pleasant and comfortable. Plenty of time for a good read, some study or a snooze. They serve coffee on the train, we soon found out and it was really good and a screaming deal for one Euro.
By the time we arrived in Porto, we were hungry. So, after we checked into our Airbnb we took off to tour the town on foot. Our hostess gave us a map with a list of the best places to eat, and we were off to seek delicious internal nourishment.
Porto is quite hilly and reminded me a lot of San Francisco. Oh, and beautiful, beautiful, wish I was still there! I had done a little research myself (Thank you Rick Steves!) and we set off to find Casa Guedes which is famous for its pork sliders. It was a bit of a hike, but we found it and, of course there was a line out the door. We were tired and hungry and almost blew it off to go elsewhere, but there were only four or five others ahead of us, so I insisted, we’ve gotta suck it up and try these. After about ten minutes we reached the counter to order.
The place is TINY and when you get to the register, you had better know what you want. This is what you want: pork slider with cheese and a glass or bottle of the house sparkling rose, which was not on the menu, as near as I could tell.
We sat at the three-seat bar and waited for our food. Behind the bar was a man with a giant side of pork swimming in roast pork juicy deliciousness. We were getting high on the fumes. This was going to be good.
Holy mother of the best pork sandwich you have ever had! And the rose wine with it, heaven. There were only about three or four small tables inside, most of the seating was outside on the patio. It was a little chilly, but we sat outside and enjoyed our gastronomic bliss. Joe had a Super Bock beer, which was good with the world’s best roast pork sandwiches that melted in our mouths, but the sparkling rose really was the perfect pairing. This was one of the best meals that we had on our entire trip. Simple, taste treat sensation and all for about $17 Euros for the two of us. This is what I’m talking about! Welcome to Porto! When do we move in?!