Aveiro, the Venice of Portugal.

Italians and some Aveirenses (people from Aveiro) dislike this moniker.
They say that Aveiro is not at all like Venice. And it is true, they are very different cities. However, they both have canals and gondola-like boats that cruise them.

They are two of my favorite cities. Venice is truly unique and has a dark mystique to it. Aveiro is all love and light. Instead of black gondolas, the Moliceiros are brightly painted and have names or sayings on them. These boats, originally used to harvest seaweed (moliço), are now used to ferry tourists through the canals for a unique look at the city.

Aveiro also has the Friendship Bridges. The city took a page from the locks that symbolize union in Paris and substituted ribbons to suggest the ties that bind. They give a festive air to the surroundings.

Aveiro has the most Art Nouveau buildings in Portugal. The Art Nouveau Museum is in the former house of Mário Belmonte Pessoa, a businessman from the area.
It is also famous for its salt from the neighboring salt flats.
There is plenty to do and see in Aveiro. The nearby cities of Ovar, Águeda, Costa Nova, and Ílhavo are well worth a visit.

We left Porto for Aveiro because we are getting older, and Porto has become more crowded and frenetic lately. There is a calma in Aveiro that called to us.
It is quieter, cleaner, and friendlier than some bigger cities.
The people are easygoing, and the food is fabulous. We feel right at home already.

We will always love Porto but now Aveiro is our new home.

Favorite hang outs in Porto.

There are so many great places to visit in Porto. It is hard to know where to start. Here are a few of our favorites.

First, some old faves in new locations.

Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar has moved to Lapa. It is still the best place to have a dram in town. It sports a more spacious, homier space and is a few minutes walk from the Lapa metro station. Eddie and João are the hosts with the most here. If you like whiskey, you must check it out. Porto is lucky to have them. BAR & WHISKY BOUTIQUE | EST 2021 | PORTO – (eddiesklub.pt)

Rei da Gula, our favorite pizza from Gaia, has opened a new location in the heart of Porto. The new spot has a warm atmosphere, stellar service, and the same fantastic za, pasta, and salads. Muito obrigada amigos!

REI DA GULA GAIA // PIZZA COMO AMAMOS

Gh Restaurant Cafe and Hostel is one of our latest finds in Cedofeita. Located in the center of the arts district on Rua Miguel Bombarda. Upon entering, one is greeted by a lovely bar area. There are rooms upstairs (It is also a hostel.) and an excellent restaurant downstairs. The staff is super friendly and helpful, and the cocktails are fabulous.

It is one of the best places in town for a drink and a nosh. Try the fish and chips or the steak tartare-delicious!

Portuguese & Fusion Food | GH Restaurant and Cafe | Porto | Rua Miguel Bombarda, 222

Another favorite place for dinner or a drink and snacks is Mind the Glass. It is downtown, around the corner from the U of Porto and Livraria Lello.

It is the perfect place to light after a hard day of seeing the sights of Porto. They have a superbly knowledgeable staff, a cozy patio, and a well-appointed dining room. Not to mention the outstanding food and drink.

And bonus, if you try a wine you love, you can take a bottle home.

Food, drink, and bottle shop all in one place. One-stop shopping.

Homepage (mindtheglass.pt)

There are so many great places to go, things to do and see in Porto, a cidade invicta! (The unconquered city.)

These were the highlights from the year from hell. As dreadful as it was, it wasn´t all bad.
But thank God it is over! Boas vindas 2024.

Onward and upward, we hope. And so we will say so long Porto, and hello Aveiro in 2024! From the unconquered city to the Venice of Portugal, a new adventure awaits!

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Time´s fun when you are having flies!

Yes, you read that right.

I used to have a wall clock that had two clear plastic hands and little black flies at the end of each one. Underneath the hands, it said Time Flies. Love me a good play on words.
And time flies when you are having fun. Time has flown, even though fun has been in short supply for the past few months.

Between the rainy weather and having a sick, aged dog, among other things, it has been more of a hell ride.

Despite the tough times, there have been a few bright moments.
A wine tasting, a chocolate tasting, and a wee dram of Irish whiskey have helped deal with the dark side.

The wild Jiver dog in his natural habitat!

There were some great finds at the Simplesmente Vinho wine event.
The wines from Tras-os-Montes, Veneto, Italy, and Lisboa were standouts.
Daughters of Madness had some really innovative offerings. They included wine made with one percent seawater and some wine and cider combinations that were very good.

Daughters of Madness cider/wine and Feito de Joa wine from Tras-os Montes, Portugal.

Oh, and happy St. Paddy´s day! Irish whiskey at Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar.

Du Bom chocolatier and wine bar is a find in Porto. Magically delicious chocolates and wine and cocktails too!
They are just a few doors down from Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar. Bonus round! I am

In the cosmic rebate department, I won a candle and a tea towel from the Companhia Portugueza do Chá. companhiaportuguezadocha.com

Whoo hoo! Thanks, Lisette Creuxquette, the French influencer in Lisboa who held the contest.
The citrus and white flower candle smells sublime. The tea towel has the word saudade and a poetic definition in Portuguese.

Saudade means longing, yearning for things past, nostalgia. (It is a feminine noun.)

Missing what was, the time that was, the image that lingered.

Feeling, flavor, sensation.

That was saudade, the sun that never set.

How did I win it, you ask? The question was, for what do you have saudade?

I said that I had saudade for simpler times.
No doubt, ´eh?

Where Have I been?!

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We have had quite a few visitors from the states in the past few months.
And from our galavanting around town like touristas, we both got sick.
Ugh. The first time in three and a half years. It was so awesome to be sickness free for so long.
The upside to Covid, staying home kept us healthy.
After several weeks of feeling like crap, we finally feel good again.

The benefit of showing visitors around town is that we get to see sites that are new to us as well.

Falcon outside of McDonald´s with its handler.

Two places I have wanted to see are McDonald´s in what used to be an Art Deco club and Clerigos Tower.
Unexpected bonus outside of said McD´s: A woman with a falcon.
The raptor was on the job keeping the pigeons away. Very cool and so ingenious.
The interior of the building is classic Art Deco. Very beautiful. It is a shame that it is inhabited by such a dreadful American burger place.
At least it is preserved and can be seen by the public.

The view from the top of Clerigos Tower.

Clerigos tower is a great way to get some steps in. And the views from the top are worth the effort.
Once visits to historic landmarks are accomplished, it is time for a drink and a nosh!
Cross the bridge and get ye to Vila Nova de Gaia!

The view from Vila Nova de Gaia to Porto. And the Offley port house rabelo boat.

Quevedo is a fabulous Portuguese family-owned winery that also makes fantastic gins. The tasting room is spacious and homey, and the snacks are superb! They have an array of great food and drink to choose from.

And no trip to Porto would be complete without a visit to a Port house.
We chose Cockburn´s. They are the only local port purveyor that has an in-house cooperage. The art of barrel making is fascinating.
The only dilemma regarding the port houses is which ones to visit. There are so many, and they are all great and unique in their own way.

So much to see and do in Porto but so little time!

New World Order, take 2.

It seems that people in the US continue to show more and more epic levels of stupidity. (Thanks, Jordan Keppler. Or not, it is horrifying to watch.)
Meanwhile, here in Portugal, we have just celebrated the feasts of the popular saints. St. Anthony in Lisbon and St. John here in Porto.

Lights for São João 2019. Notice the do not enter sign below the letters. The sign of things that were to come.

When we first arrived, I had heard many stories about São João and the attendant epic party that overtook the city to celebrate it.
I couldn´t wait to experience it, grilled sardines, fireworks, and just an epic good time to be had by all.
Back in 2019, we had to be in another city on that day, so we missed it.
And then the party was canceled due to the pandemic.

Enter 2022, and the party is on!
And here is where the New World Order comes in. (Besides even more stupidity in the US with rampant idiocracy). Since Covid, I don´t want anything to do with people. Much less hordes of people in a packed environment. Can you say super spreader?

Sardine salad and a Douro red wine. All you need for São João.

Meio Escudo 17º red wine from the Douro. 17º because it is 17 percent alcohol! Almost port, but drinks like an unfortified red wine. Dangerously delicious!

So, we stayed home, ate sardine salad, and had an excellent Douro wine to celebrate instead. We watched local fireworks from our balconies and saw our neighbors launch Chinese lantern balloons. It was quiet and enjoyable. And we avoided all the potential diseases we would have been exposed to due to proximity to huge numbers of people.
Sad but true, my days of attending any event with lots of people are over.

And in 2019, had we been in Porto, I would not have thought twice about joining the throngs to celebrate the day of São João.
A lot has changed since then. Sadly.
I guess I am lucky to be older because I would rather stay at home now anyway.

Because you know what? It is not worth the risk.

Pinhais Sardines

Sardines are a polarizing comestible. You either like them, or you don´t.
And as much as I have always liked them, they are not as good stateside as in Portugal. In Portugal, they are a national treasure. The little fishes are deliciously grilled fresh throughout the country from June through September, the best months for them.

Canned, they are a delicacy that comes in many flavors.
They come with olive oil, tomato sauce, spicy olive oil or tomato sauce, or mustard sauce, to name a few.
They are available at the supermarket for about a buck. And gourmet versions run about four or five euros.

We had the immense fun of touring the Pinhais sardine factory in Matosinhos. Matosinhos is just west of Porto and is famous for the fish and fish restaurants.
The Pinhais sardine factory has been in operation since 1920. And they operate pretty much the same way today as they did back then.
The front office and entry have remained unchanged since the 20s.

Tile work at the entry to Pinhais sardine factory.

The Ajuelos tile work is beautiful. Much care went into the design of the factory.
The staircase to the second floor looks like a fish when viewed from below. It is artful and ingenious.

Only the best sardines are chosen for canning by the women who work the floor. They sort and prepare the fish on long marble tables.

Hard at work on the floor of the factory.

After canning, they are hand wrapped in colorful paper. The ladies doing the wrapping

are quick and efficient. We got to try wrapping cans ourselves, and we were slow and inefficient in comparison.

No surprise there.
After taking the tour, we sampled the tinned fish, and they did not disappoint. Our sardine factory adventure ended with a glass of Vinho Verde wine and a sampling of sardines. It was the perfect mid-day snack.
Who knew that canned fish could be so much fun and so delicious?

Felgueiras Vinho Verde Rosé. Crisp and dry, made from the Espadeiro grape. One of the few red grapes of the region. About two euros a bottle here in Porto. Eat your heart out Two Buck Chuck! 😉

Milestones and The Weather Part 2.

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Snow in Denver, Colorado. Do not miss it!

I have slept through January and most of February.
When it is cold, I prefer to stay in bed and hibernate.
Having followed the sun to Portugal, I have been following the sun into my bedroom as well.
The rays do not hit the windows until between ten and ten-thirty AM.
That is when I start to consider raising the shutters.
We have added curtains and two heat and A/C units to our place. These additions have helped immensely with temperature control.

Our new curtains. Even Jiva likes them. 😉

I guess I should just stop trying to be like my Portuguese neighbors and admit my failings as an American; we like things to be easy and comfortable.

And, happily, this has been the warmest and driest winter in Portugal since 2000.
This is good and bad, of course. It has put the entire country into a drought situation.
That pesky climate change thing again. Yesterday it was 70+ degrees in Porto.
Most unusual for this time of year.

And yesterday was a milestone for us.
The third anniversary of our arrival in Portugal.
It is hard to believe it has been three years already. We have never looked back and are so thankful because life is so much better here.

I still have to laugh that Portugal was never on our radar as a possible place to live until it was pointed out to us. And it has turned out to be the best possible place to live!
There is no comparison to the states because everything is so superior.

Meats and Cheese board with some local wines at Mercado Bom Succeso, Porto.

The quality of the food and wine alone is worth moving for. Not to mention the great weather and low cost of living. The country itself is spectacular.
Covid notwithstanding, I could be content to spend the rest of my days traveling through Portugal alone. It is tiny but so packed with eye-popping beauty.

The Douro river from Jardim do Morro, Vila Nova de Gaia.

As much as I love wines from other countries, it is hard to drink anything other than the local wines.
They are so good and can be had for a fraction of the price. Anything you could want can be had here. If you like Burgundy, get a Jaen (red) or Encruzado (white) from the Dão. Bordeaux? A red or white from the Douro. California? Alentejo, Tejo, or Sétubal has drops that compare. Champagne? Bairrada has you covered.
Fabulous sparkling wines, in general, can be had from any wine region in Portugal.

And it does not stop there, dessert wines?
Porto, Madeira, and, Sétubal all have a unique diversity of sweet wines.

Quinta do Tedo award winning tawny Port.

The fun never stops, as I like to say.

I used to say that I could spend the rest of my life exploring Italy, another wine mecca.
Now, I know that I will spend the rest of my life exploring Portugal. Hopefully, I can revisit Italy too. 😉
Meanwhile, viva Portugal!
Sáude.

Portugal and the weather.

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Winter has arrived in Portugal. We have been lucky to have had mostly sunny days through November. But now it is cold and rainy here in Porto, as is expected this time of year.
The pleasant weather is one of the things that attracted us to Portugal.
And we chose to live in Porto to avoid the heat of summer that can be extreme in the southern parts of the country. Mission accomplished there. The summers have been beautiful, and in the 70s for the most part.
Fall is fabulous, with warm days and cool nights through the end of October. Spring can be very hit or miss, some cold rainy days interspersed with sunny days.

Last year, we suffered through the coldest winter in 30 years here.
And our electricity bill showed it. 300-350 euros for the coldest winter months. Yikes! We are used to paying 35-50 per month.

When we first visited Portugal, I noticed the lack of heating in most buildings. I thought, wow, the weather must be so mild that heating isn’t necessary. Silly human! Au contraire, mon frère.
Here is what I have learned after living here for almost three years. The Portuguese are incredibly stoic when it comes to suffering through cold weather. Yup, it is winter, and it is cold. Suck it up! That is the attitude. I don’t know if it is a holdover from the Salazar dictatorship or what, but doing without heat does not seem to bother most of them.

As wussy Americans, we are not keen on freezing our keesters off for months at a time. So, this year we got a more energy-efficient space heater and ordered some heavy draperies in hopes of warding off the worst of the winter cold.
If that does not help, we may have to install heating. We are crossing our fingers that window coverings will be the answer.
In the meantime, we will be drinking lots of spiced wine and doing plenty of cooking and baking to keep things warmed up.

Harvest in the Douro Valley.

I have said it before, and I am sure that I will say it many times more, the Douro wine region in Portugal is one of the most breathtaking in the world.

We had the good fortune to attend a harvest day at Quinta do Tedo this past September. And it was no end of fun. It also showed us how much work goes into harvesting grapes and making wine.
My hat is off to the owners, Vincent and Kay Bouchard because the amount of work required to make a good bottle of wine is staggering. Not to mention the manpower that is necessary to hand-pick fruit and process it. Much less running a successful Quinta with accommodations and a restaurant. Whew! Makes me tired just thinking about it.

Before going out into the vineyard to pick grapes, we were treated to a breakfast of hearty soup and pataniscas, which are cod fritters.
After this fortifying snack, we were armed with clippers and a bucket and went out into the vineyard. We picked grapes for about half an hour. And let me tell you, I would not want to have to do it all day. This is back-breaking labor.
After emptying our grape buckets, we walked back to the winery for a light lunch. A Feast is a more apt description. The table was a groaning board of Portuguese delicacies. Holy mother of yum! And all accompanied by the house red wine. Delicious.

After lunch, we went to the lagares, large stone vats, to stomp the grapes we had just picked. Again, it was fun for about an hour. We did get to sample some port wine while we were at it, which helped. Portugal is one of the only countries that still use foot treading to crush the grapes.
Workers typically stomp the grapes for about four hours at a time. Oy!

Quinta do Tedo Tawny Port, a shining example of the species!

After giving the grapes a good stomp, we took our newly purple feet back to the tasting room to sample more port wines. Divine is what they were. Ruby, Tawny, and Vintage, oh my! Port wine is a deep subject and one of the great Portuguese gifts to the world. The wines from Portugal are diverse and outstanding, as is the food. And after spending the better part of a day helping with the harvest, I appreciate them even more.

Thanks again to the Bouchards and their staff for a memorable and delectable experience.

Vinhão Revisited

Vinhão, also known as Sezão or Sousão in Portugal, is one of the red grapes in the Minho or Vinho Verde region. It is known for its deep dark color and biting acidity and is usually blended and used for Port and table wines.
As grapes go, it is a pretty rare and exotic specimen.

It produces my favorite color in a wine. Black iris. A deep, dark purple that is almost black. If you spill this grape juice, you had better have some serious cleaning agents at the ready.
(Yes, we spilled it all over a white wall and thought we would have to repaint, for sure. Thanks to Neo Blanc, the wonder cleaner, for saving the day! We could not believe that it cleaned up so well you would never know it happened.)

And this brings us to the wine of the hour: São Gião (sow guy-ow) Vinhão (vin-yow. I know, Portuguese, oy!) Colheita Selecionada. https://quintasaogiao.pt/en.

This is new favorite red wine for us. It has black fruit, violet, and spice aromas with super blue and blackberry flavors. It is medium-bodied and bone dry on the finish with a killer minerality. It is unique. It is somewhat like a dry Brachetto (an almost equally obscure wine). Only Vinhão is drier, darker and, has more body. It pairs smashingly with salmon or other fatty fish and cured meats and cheeses. It is delicious with eggplant parmesan and the like. It also drinks well by itself. (Important safety tip, it does not pair well with light-colored walls or carpeting!) It is a great summer red wine and should be served with a slight chill. And check out that label. The artwork is stunning and is meant to reflect the terroir of the wine.

And now for the bad news. Good luck finding it outside of Portugal. The red wines from the Vinho Verde region are pretty rare, even in Portugal. They make up only about seven percent of the wines hailing from Vinho Verde.
When reading about the region, the red wines are often not even mentioned. The recommended red grapes are Amaral/Azal tinto, Borraçal, Brancelho, Espadeiro, (which makes a mean rosé), Padreiro, Redral, Rabode Ovelha and Vinhão. There are several more that are permitted in the DOC wines of the area. Welcome to Portugal, where 250 to 350 indigenous grape varieties exist, depending on who you ask!
It is a wine mecca second only to Italy. A foodie and winos paradise and a wine geeks dream. Sáude!