Featured

Time´s fun when you are having flies!

Yes, you read that right.

I used to have a wall clock that had two clear plastic hands and little black flies at the end of each one. Underneath the hands, it said Time Flies. Love me a good play on words.
And time flies when you are having fun. Time has flown, even though fun has been in short supply for the past few months.

Between the rainy weather and having a sick, aged dog, among other things, it has been more of a hell ride.

Despite the tough times, there have been a few bright moments.
A wine tasting, a chocolate tasting, and a wee dram of Irish whiskey have helped deal with the dark side.

The wild Jiver dog in his natural habitat!

There were some great finds at the Simplesmente Vinho wine event.
The wines from Tras-os-Montes, Veneto, Italy, and Lisboa were standouts.
Daughters of Madness had some really innovative offerings. They included wine made with one percent seawater and some wine and cider combinations that were very good.

Daughters of Madness cider/wine and Feito de Joa wine from Tras-os Montes, Portugal.

Oh, and happy St. Paddy´s day! Irish whiskey at Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar.

Du Bom chocolatier and wine bar is a find in Porto. Magically delicious chocolates and wine and cocktails too!
They are just a few doors down from Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar. Bonus round! I am

In the cosmic rebate department, I won a candle and a tea towel from the Companhia Portugueza do Chá. companhiaportuguezadocha.com

Whoo hoo! Thanks, Lisette Creuxquette, the French influencer in Lisboa who held the contest.
The citrus and white flower candle smells sublime. The tea towel has the word saudade and a poetic definition in Portuguese.

Saudade means longing, yearning for things past, nostalgia. (It is a feminine noun.)

Missing what was, the time that was, the image that lingered.

Feeling, flavor, sensation.

That was saudade, the sun that never set.

How did I win it, you ask? The question was, for what do you have saudade?

I said that I had saudade for simpler times.
No doubt, ´eh?

Where Have I been?!

Featured

We have had quite a few visitors from the states in the past few months.
And from our galavanting around town like touristas, we both got sick.
Ugh. The first time in three and a half years. It was so awesome to be sickness free for so long.
The upside to Covid, staying home kept us healthy.
After several weeks of feeling like crap, we finally feel good again.

The benefit of showing visitors around town is that we get to see sites that are new to us as well.

Falcon outside of McDonald´s with its handler.

Two places I have wanted to see are McDonald´s in what used to be an Art Deco club and Clerigos Tower.
Unexpected bonus outside of said McD´s: A woman with a falcon.
The raptor was on the job keeping the pigeons away. Very cool and so ingenious.
The interior of the building is classic Art Deco. Very beautiful. It is a shame that it is inhabited by such a dreadful American burger place.
At least it is preserved and can be seen by the public.

The view from the top of Clerigos Tower.

Clerigos tower is a great way to get some steps in. And the views from the top are worth the effort.
Once visits to historic landmarks are accomplished, it is time for a drink and a nosh!
Cross the bridge and get ye to Vila Nova de Gaia!

The view from Vila Nova de Gaia to Porto. And the Offley port house rabelo boat.

Quevedo is a fabulous Portuguese family-owned winery that also makes fantastic gins. The tasting room is spacious and homey, and the snacks are superb! They have an array of great food and drink to choose from.

And no trip to Porto would be complete without a visit to a Port house.
We chose Cockburn´s. They are the only local port purveyor that has an in-house cooperage. The art of barrel making is fascinating.
The only dilemma regarding the port houses is which ones to visit. There are so many, and they are all great and unique in their own way.

So much to see and do in Porto but so little time!

Milestones and The Weather Part 2.

Featured

Snow in Denver, Colorado. Do not miss it!

I have slept through January and most of February.
When it is cold, I prefer to stay in bed and hibernate.
Having followed the sun to Portugal, I have been following the sun into my bedroom as well.
The rays do not hit the windows until between ten and ten-thirty AM.
That is when I start to consider raising the shutters.
We have added curtains and two heat and A/C units to our place. These additions have helped immensely with temperature control.

Our new curtains. Even Jiva likes them. 😉

I guess I should just stop trying to be like my Portuguese neighbors and admit my failings as an American; we like things to be easy and comfortable.

And, happily, this has been the warmest and driest winter in Portugal since 2000.
This is good and bad, of course. It has put the entire country into a drought situation.
That pesky climate change thing again. Yesterday it was 70+ degrees in Porto.
Most unusual for this time of year.

And yesterday was a milestone for us.
The third anniversary of our arrival in Portugal.
It is hard to believe it has been three years already. We have never looked back and are so thankful because life is so much better here.

I still have to laugh that Portugal was never on our radar as a possible place to live until it was pointed out to us. And it has turned out to be the best possible place to live!
There is no comparison to the states because everything is so superior.

Meats and Cheese board with some local wines at Mercado Bom Succeso, Porto.

The quality of the food and wine alone is worth moving for. Not to mention the great weather and low cost of living. The country itself is spectacular.
Covid notwithstanding, I could be content to spend the rest of my days traveling through Portugal alone. It is tiny but so packed with eye-popping beauty.

The Douro river from Jardim do Morro, Vila Nova de Gaia.

As much as I love wines from other countries, it is hard to drink anything other than the local wines.
They are so good and can be had for a fraction of the price. Anything you could want can be had here. If you like Burgundy, get a Jaen (red) or Encruzado (white) from the Dão. Bordeaux? A red or white from the Douro. California? Alentejo, Tejo, or Sétubal has drops that compare. Champagne? Bairrada has you covered.
Fabulous sparkling wines, in general, can be had from any wine region in Portugal.

And it does not stop there, dessert wines?
Porto, Madeira, and, Sétubal all have a unique diversity of sweet wines.

Quinta do Tedo award winning tawny Port.

The fun never stops, as I like to say.

I used to say that I could spend the rest of my life exploring Italy, another wine mecca.
Now, I know that I will spend the rest of my life exploring Portugal. Hopefully, I can revisit Italy too. 😉
Meanwhile, viva Portugal!
Sáude.

Portugal and the weather.

Featured

Winter has arrived in Portugal. We have been lucky to have had mostly sunny days through November. But now it is cold and rainy here in Porto, as is expected this time of year.
The pleasant weather is one of the things that attracted us to Portugal.
And we chose to live in Porto to avoid the heat of summer that can be extreme in the southern parts of the country. Mission accomplished there. The summers have been beautiful, and in the 70s for the most part.
Fall is fabulous, with warm days and cool nights through the end of October. Spring can be very hit or miss, some cold rainy days interspersed with sunny days.

Last year, we suffered through the coldest winter in 30 years here.
And our electricity bill showed it. 300-350 euros for the coldest winter months. Yikes! We are used to paying 35-50 per month.

When we first visited Portugal, I noticed the lack of heating in most buildings. I thought, wow, the weather must be so mild that heating isn’t necessary. Silly human! Au contraire, mon frère.
Here is what I have learned after living here for almost three years. The Portuguese are incredibly stoic when it comes to suffering through cold weather. Yup, it is winter, and it is cold. Suck it up! That is the attitude. I don’t know if it is a holdover from the Salazar dictatorship or what, but doing without heat does not seem to bother most of them.

As wussy Americans, we are not keen on freezing our keesters off for months at a time. So, this year we got a more energy-efficient space heater and ordered some heavy draperies in hopes of warding off the worst of the winter cold.
If that does not help, we may have to install heating. We are crossing our fingers that window coverings will be the answer.
In the meantime, we will be drinking lots of spiced wine and doing plenty of cooking and baking to keep things warmed up.

The Urban Jungle and the call of the Pterodactyls.

Featured

The US specializes in urban jungles. LA, New York, and Chicago all personify types of urban jungles. They all have areas that are asphalt jungles. Full of hard surfaces and danger. Los Angeles, especially since they concreted over most of the city in the first half of the 20th century. All three specialize in plenty of urban violence, which is epidemic throughout the states.

Urban jungle Portuguese style. This one is tucked behind an apartment building and they can be found all over Porto like this.

Here in Portugal, we have entirely different types of urban jungle.
There are oases of greenery everywhere if you know where to look.
And then there is the wildlife. Avian wildlife predominates. Followed closely by cats and dogs coming in a distant third. (We are talking urban wildlife here. The number one spot, of course, goes to the humans. Far and away the most dangerous of the lot!)

A seagull looking mean whilst subjugating a car.

I have mentioned the Atlantic seagulls before. They really are kings of the coasts. As near as I can tell, man is their only predator. The Portuguese Atlantic gulls can be vicious pigeon killers. It is actually pretty scary to witness. And with so many pigeons, the gulls will never go hungry. I wonder if pigeons are a delicacy to them since they mostly eat fish. It is pretty horrifying to hear the screams of the city rats when the seagulls go after them. I have seen them feed their chicks with fresh rock dove meat. Yum. It gives one new respect for the seagoing warrior gulls. And the screaming of the sea pterodactyls is near-constant in the cities near the coast.

On a lighter note, we have what seems like a flock of parrots in the neighborhood. They fly by so quickly, it is hard to tell if that is what they are. Given their screeching and small green bodies, we guess they must be renegade parrots. Songbirds are very popular as pets here and, you know they must escape from time to time.

A peacock in the park at the Palácio de Cristal in Porto.

When it comes to screeching, there is nothing like a peacock. The peafowl really makes the most Jurassic park sounding noise. Several parks have them in abundance and, they tool around like house pets in various parts of town. It is entertaining to see.

We hear about the shootings du jour in the US, and we think, wow, it just seems to keep getting worse in the not-so United States. We are happy to have traded the concrete jungle for a peaceful urban oasis.

Things we love about Porto.

Featured

Here are just a few.

A happy Porto garbage truck. Thanks for playing! 😉

Happy Porto garbage trucks. That’s right, I said happy Porto garbage trucks.
The color of the city of Porto is a bright navy blue. Which is appropriate given the proximity to the river and ocean. And even the garbage trucks are painted this color. They are shiny and new-looking and have digital signs on the back with public service announcements.
Use máscara. Use a mask! Obrigado. Thank you.
We have lived here for a while now, and we love the city and most everything about it.
When I remember the nasty-looking garbage trucks in the US, and I see the trucks here in Porto, all I can think is, happy Porto garbage trucks!
The atmosphere in Portugal is happier and more relaxed than in the states, by far. And as far as the superior quality of just about everything here, I think it is a case of smaller is better. I like to say that Portugal is a lot like California only, smaller and better. No offense Cali, but it is true! Bigger and bolder are not always better.

Sundays. Remember when Sunday was a day of rest? Probably not. That concept has somehow been lost in the US. It does not matter what day it is. It’s, go, go, go, all the time. Here in Europe, Sunday is still a day of rest. Shops are closed, and the streets are quiet. It is my favorite day to go out strolling. The Portuguese say, calma! Calm down, take it easy. America has forgotten what it means to take it easy. In so many ways.

And the flowers. There is a profusion of flowers everywhere. The trumpet flowers are enormous, and the perfume from them is intoxicating. And then there are the giant multi-colored hydrangeas. They are mind-blowing.

And, once more, I have to mention the food and drink. I wish I could convey how good it all is here. You have to taste it to believe it. Again, I think it is a case of a smaller place that has superior quality. We have never loved having salads as much as we have here. And the country is a wino’s dream. There are fabulous wines to be had for less than five euros. Portugal personifies the saying as an embarrassment of riches.
We are so happy and fortunate to be here to enjoy them.

Mustard pork Niçoise salad with shrimp and greens stuffed bread. A taste treat sensation. Paired perfectly with the white wine pictured below.

Above, mustard pork Niçoise salad with shrimp, greens and bechamel stuffed bread. And this was created with leftovers! Thanks to Feito Prati for the amazing pão trança, braided stuffed bread, and the mustard pork.

Portuguese white and red blend wines. Two bottles of wine for about five euros. And Cuban cigars. (The Periquita stood up well with the cigars.) We have it all here. You gotta love it!

World Wine Reality Check

Featured

This just in from Vinepair.com, The 25 Best Rose Wines of 2021.
https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/25-best-rose-wines-2020

I read this one in the middle of the night when I couldn’t sleep. Big mistake. It just got me all fired up about the egregious disparities between the US and the rest of the world. Again.

12 of the “best” rosés in this lineup are American. Of those 12, 11 are from California. Biased? I am thinking so.
Then there is the subject of price. “…over half of the bottles here clock in at under $25…making them great case-buys.” Lol. Sounds expensive to me. Maybe that is because here in Portugal I can buy fabulous rosés for about $2-5 per bottle. If I want to seriously splurge, I can drop 24 euros on an outstanding single varietal Touriga Nacional rosé. I am sure it would compare favorably with the $40 Provence rosé they peg at number four on the list. In fact, I know that I would prefer the Portuguese rosé because I have had the Domaines Ott rosé. And while it is good, it is not worth $40 a bottle in my book. The Pacheca reserva rosé is more complex and satisfying in my estimation. And admittedly, in this case, I am biased.

Pacheca Reserva Rosé. Magically delicious!

So why are wines so much more expensive in the states?
Well, because of the three-tier system, a throwback to prohibition, prices are disproportionately jacked up. There is talk of revamping this auto-overpricing system. But given America’s Puritanical, capitalistic roots, I would be surprised if that actually happens.
(Just like the health insurance system, to name one of the many broken systems in the US. But I digress.)
Reading the Vinepair article, I am reminded of how oblivious people in the US are. Hell, I was one of them until about five years ago.
Back in the day, we all thought that America was the greatest country in the world. And maybe back then, it was. Sadly, not anymore. When I mention how scary and dangerous it is over there, my friends say it is not that bad. Really? When a person can be shot and killed going to the grocery store on any given day, I have to say, yes, it is. The shooting du jour has become shootings du jour. And that is the tip of the iceberg, I am afraid. But again, I digress.

To further illustrate my point, here is an article about affordable rosés that appeared in the Irish Sun.
https://www.thesun.ie/fabulous/6994586/10-presentable-bottles-rose-enjoy-ireland/
It is titled, On the Grapevine. 10 of the best perfectly presentable and very affordable bottles of Rosé wine for you to enjoy.
They run from about 6.50 to 25 euros, with one from Italy for 40 euros. And, I should point out that the 40 euro number is different because of the winemaking process and is aged for a year. That might justify the higher price. (Not just another overpriced French rosé.)
Now, Ireland is an island and, these wines all have to be shipped over. So the fact that they are so much cheaper than their American cousins, for the most part, underscores my point. Most of them are 7-12 euros. This sounds like a much better case-buy to me.

The Palmelão pictured below is a great every day rosé for about $2. I am sure that it would compare favorably to most of the $15 rosés that are available in the US. And it is not Franzia-like leftovers. It is a well crafted three-varietal rosé. For about two dollars a bottle. (Eat your heart out two buck Chuck!)

Two outstanding Rosés from Portugal. The Palmelão is from the Pamela region of Setubal, in the south. The Pacheca is from the Douro in the north.

Having spent years in the booze biz in the states, I have tasted a lot of wines. And while I can appreciate a good Provence rosé, now that I have had some of the Portuguese rosés for a fraction of the price, I can never go back. Never mind the wildly overpriced California offerings. (Sorry, Ca. And, I am from the Golden state.) Why would I want to?
And, I guess if you live in the United States, it helps to be oblivious to these kinds of disparities.

Proximity and Social Distance.

Featured

The tiled steps up to WOW, The World of Wine in Vila Nova de Gaia.

So close and yet so far. That is how it feels living in a foreign country during a pandemic. One could say that is how it feels living in a foreign country in general. We are close to others physically but, the language acts as a barrier that keeps us from connecting. And with lockdown and social distancing and masks, even more so.
Having been stuck at home for the past three months, we have got to know our neighbors through observation. Since we live over a café, there is plenty to observe. It is sort of a neighborhood hangout. The guys stand around and chat off and on at all hours of the day.

Here’s what we have perceived about them.
Our neighbors upstairs are very sweet octagenarians. They are friendly and thankful to have us. Apparently, the previous tenants were not so desirable and routinely trashed the place. Isabel always says, if we need anything, just let them know. I just wish I could understand her better. I figure I get about half of what she is saying when we interact. Their daughter is friendly as well. Happily, she speaks English, which helps. They warmly welcomed us to the neighborhood, which was great.

The dudes in the hood, however, were another matter. They have been very wary of us. Finally, after six months, they will say good morning or afternoon when we see them. One of them has two dogs, and he has become friendly. His dogs and our dog have become buds. We have even chatted once or twice, with my limited Portuguese. He seems nice enough but somewhat downtrodden. He wears a sweatshirt sometimes that says NOTHING. This, to me, speaks volumes. He appears to be kind of sad at times and sometimes looks positively beat up.

Then there is the talker. He has a distinctive voice that carries. I get the feeling that he does not like us. Or maybe he just doesn’t like foreigners. He doesn’t seem as threatened by us now as when we first moved in. Just a feeling I get. Xenophobia is everywhere.
The funny thing is one evening, I overheard him saying what I construed as something derogatory about the English and Americans. Full disclosure, English and Americans were the only two words that I understood of his would-be diatribe. Then, in a moment of the universe laughing in my face, I saw him wearing a sweatshirt that said USA on it the next day!

For comic relief, we have the Oxford yodler and Alice Kravatz across the street. The O.Y. seems like a lost soul. He has severe psoriasis and wanders around, looking bereft a lot of the time. He wears an Oxford University sweatshirt most of the time. He likes to sing and yodels occasionally in the street. He actually has a pleasant singing voice. The yodeling is a bit odd but always makes me laugh.

And then there is Alice. I call her Alice Kravatz as in the character of the same name on the old Bewitched sitcom. The nosey neighbor. She was always looking out the window and getting into the business of others.
This Alice likes to look out the window of her front door. Or she stands just outside of the front door in her slippers. A blanket draped over her shoulders while watching what is going on in the street. Occasionally, she will sport a red hat reminiscent of those worn by the band Devo. Her ensembles are noteworthy. In a, I’m an old lady, and I don’t give a shit kind of way. She is the neighborhood watch.

The neighborhood watch captain’s front door. (It is the white one.)

I wonder if we would have noticed our new neighbors as much if it wasn’t for the pandemic. Because we certainly would be out and about much more. Since we are always home, and our place is like a fishbowl, watching the goings-on in the street has become a form of entertainment. I guess we all have some Alice Kravatz in us in the end.

3 Things to Remember Re: R.E.

There are many things to know about buying and selling real estate no matter where you are doing it.
The first things, of course, are location, location, location! Sorry, I couldn´t resist. It is still a time-tested truth about real estate.
I sold real estate for decades in Denver, Colorado. The stories from those years are a book unto itself. I even taught real estate to aspiring brokers for a few years before we left the US. Buying, selling, and maintaining real estate is not for the faint of heart.

We had a saying in the biz, buyers are liars and sellers are worse. Sad but true. So, with location being the number one thing to remember, doing your research is a close second. And, no matter how much research you do or how prepared you think you are, everything is going to cost more than you planned. (Figure on twice as much as you think it will cost for everything.) And even with all the planning in the world, it can all still go horribly wrong. (2008 anyone?) Timing is everything, as they say.
And number three, always use a seasoned and knowledgeable real estate agent. This is especially important in a foreign country. The ins and outs of real estate are very different abroad. (They are no walk in the park in the states, for that matter.)
That being said, if you want to buy property in a foreign country, I recommend taking International Finance 101. Actually, Basic Finance 101 will help too.

Always scope out all the options and costs when buying or selling real estate! (Park de Virtudes, Porto.)

And this brings me to my latest deal from hell. We just closed on the sale of our first apartment in Porto. We knew we probably wouldn´t stay there forever. But, we really thought we would stay longer than three years. However, with a change for the worse of the neighborhood, we decided it was time to move on.
We listed the apartment for sale in August 2023. Signed a contract for it in December. Four months, a reasonable amount of time on the market to land the right sale. We did not finish the deal until the end of May 2024. Five months to close on the deal. While not unheard of, it is a long time. Nine months from start to finish. Ugh.
So, why did it take so long, you ask? Let me explain.

In the movie The Princess Bride, there is a line that goes something like, never get involved in a land war in Asia. I would add to that advice, never get involved in a real estate deal with a cash buyer from Mozambique in Portugal!
As a realtor, you think, cash deal, great. Should be a slam dunk. Right? Right. Not!
We received the deposit of 22,000 and another installment of 50,000 as spelled out in the contract, no problem. And then, crickets and nothing for months. Until we were out of contract with the delineated dates. Then we started getting deposits of 5,000, 6,000, 500, 50 randomly.
Suggestions were made that the government might be concerned about money laundering since it was coming from Africa. But our banker said that was doubtful, at least from the Portuguese side.
Finally, in April we gave the buyer(s) an ultimatum. Cough up the rest of the money due by the end of May, or we will keep what we have and find another buyer. That finally got results. We closed on May 29th.
Come to find out that the buyer was a general in Mozambique and that money laundering could be a real concern. You can´t make this shite up! In the meantime, we moved to Aveiro in February, thinking it would all be over within a few weeks. Silly us. The apartment stood empty for four months. At least the deal finally went through. And thank God for our agent who got us through it all. Rule number four is to always expect the unexpected when it comes to real estate. Because anything can and will happen.

Onward and upward, as they say.

Aveiro, the Venice of Portugal.

Italians and some Aveirenses (people from Aveiro) dislike this moniker.
They say that Aveiro is not at all like Venice. And it is true, they are very different cities. However, they both have canals and gondola-like boats that cruise them.

They are two of my favorite cities. Venice is truly unique and has a dark mystique to it. Aveiro is all love and light. Instead of black gondolas, the Moliceiros are brightly painted and have names and/or risqué sayings on them. These boats, originally used to harvest seaweed (moliço), are now used to ferry tourists through the canals for a unique look at the city.

Aveiro also has the Friendship Bridges. The city took a page from the locks that symbolize union in Paris and substituted ribbons to suggest the ties that bind. They give a festive air to the surroundings.

Aveiro has the most Art Nouveau buildings in Portugal. The Art Nouveau Museum is in the former house of Mário Belmonte Pessoa, a businessman from the area.
It is also famous for its salt from the neighboring salt flats.
There is plenty to do and see in Aveiro. The nearby cities of Ovar, Águeda, Costa Nova, and Ílhavo are well worth a visit.

We left Porto for Aveiro because we are getting older, and Porto has become more crowded and frenetic lately. There is a calma in Aveiro that called to us.
It is quieter, cleaner, and friendlier than some bigger cities.
The people are easygoing, and the food is fabulous. We feel right at home already.

We will always love Porto but now Aveiro is our new home.

Favorite hang outs in Porto.

There are so many great places to visit in Porto. It is hard to know where to start. Here are a few of our favorites.

First, some old faves in new locations.

Eddie´s Klub Whiskey Bar has moved to Lapa. It is still the best place to have a dram in town. It sports a more spacious, homier space and is a few minutes walk from the Lapa metro station. Eddie and João are the hosts with the most here. If you like whiskey, you must check it out. Porto is lucky to have them. BAR & WHISKY BOUTIQUE | EST 2021 | PORTO – (eddiesklub.pt)

Rei da Gula, our favorite pizza from Gaia, has opened a new location in the heart of Porto. The new spot has a warm atmosphere, stellar service, and the same fantastic za, pasta, and salads. Muito obrigada amigos!

REI DA GULA GAIA // PIZZA COMO AMAMOS

Gh Restaurant Cafe and Hostel is one of our latest finds in Cedofeita. Located in the center of the arts district on Rua Miguel Bombarda. Upon entering, one is greeted by a lovely bar area. There are rooms upstairs (It is also a hostel.) and an excellent restaurant downstairs. The staff is super friendly and helpful, and the cocktails are fabulous.

It is one of the best places in town for a drink and a nosh. Try the fish and chips or the steak tartare-delicious!

Portuguese & Fusion Food | GH Restaurant and Cafe | Porto | Rua Miguel Bombarda, 222

Another favorite place for dinner or a drink and snacks is Mind the Glass. It is downtown, around the corner from the U of Porto and Livraria Lello.

It is the perfect place to light after a hard day of seeing the sights of Porto. They have a superbly knowledgeable staff, a cozy patio, and a well-appointed dining room. Not to mention the outstanding food and drink.

And bonus, if you try a wine you love, you can take a bottle home.

Food, drink, and bottle shop all in one place. One-stop shopping.

Homepage (mindtheglass.pt)

There are so many great places to go, things to do and see in Porto, a cidade invicta! (The unconquered city.)

These were the highlights from the year from hell. As dreadful as it was, it wasn´t all bad.
But thank God it is over! Boas vindas 2024.

Onward and upward, we hope. And so we will say so long Porto, and hello Aveiro in 2024! From the unconquered city to the Venice of Portugal, a new adventure awaits!

New World Order, take 2.

It seems that people in the US continue to show more and more epic levels of stupidity. (Thanks, Jordan Keppler. Or not, it is horrifying to watch.)
Meanwhile, here in Portugal, we have just celebrated the feasts of the popular saints. St. Anthony in Lisbon and St. John here in Porto.

Lights for São João 2019. Notice the do not enter sign below the letters. The sign of things that were to come.

When we first arrived, I had heard many stories about São João and the attendant epic party that overtook the city to celebrate it.
I couldn´t wait to experience it, grilled sardines, fireworks, and just an epic good time to be had by all.
Back in 2019, we had to be in another city on that day, so we missed it.
And then the party was canceled due to the pandemic.

Enter 2022, and the party is on!
And here is where the New World Order comes in. (Besides even more stupidity in the US with rampant idiocracy). Since Covid, I don´t want anything to do with people. Much less hordes of people in a packed environment. Can you say super spreader?

Sardine salad and a Douro red wine. All you need for São João.

Meio Escudo 17º red wine from the Douro. 17º because it is 17 percent alcohol! Almost port, but drinks like an unfortified red wine. Dangerously delicious!

So, we stayed home, ate sardine salad, and had an excellent Douro wine to celebrate instead. We watched local fireworks from our balconies and saw our neighbors launch Chinese lantern balloons. It was quiet and enjoyable. And we avoided all the potential diseases we would have been exposed to due to proximity to huge numbers of people.
Sad but true, my days of attending any event with lots of people are over.

And in 2019, had we been in Porto, I would not have thought twice about joining the throngs to celebrate the day of São João.
A lot has changed since then. Sadly.
I guess I am lucky to be older because I would rather stay at home now anyway.

Because you know what? It is not worth the risk.

Pinhais Sardines

Sardines are a polarizing comestible. You either like them, or you don´t.
And as much as I have always liked them, they are not as good stateside as in Portugal. In Portugal, they are a national treasure. The little fishes are deliciously grilled fresh throughout the country from June through September, the best months for them.

Canned, they are a delicacy that comes in many flavors.
They come with olive oil, tomato sauce, spicy olive oil or tomato sauce, or mustard sauce, to name a few.
They are available at the supermarket for about a buck. And gourmet versions run about four or five euros.

We had the immense fun of touring the Pinhais sardine factory in Matosinhos. Matosinhos is just west of Porto and is famous for the fish and fish restaurants.
The Pinhais sardine factory has been in operation since 1920. And they operate pretty much the same way today as they did back then.
The front office and entry have remained unchanged since the 20s.

Tile work at the entry to Pinhais sardine factory.

The Ajuelos tile work is beautiful. Much care went into the design of the factory.
The staircase to the second floor looks like a fish when viewed from below. It is artful and ingenious.

Only the best sardines are chosen for canning by the women who work the floor. They sort and prepare the fish on long marble tables.

Hard at work on the floor of the factory.

After canning, they are hand wrapped in colorful paper. The ladies doing the wrapping

are quick and efficient. We got to try wrapping cans ourselves, and we were slow and inefficient in comparison.

No surprise there.
After taking the tour, we sampled the tinned fish, and they did not disappoint. Our sardine factory adventure ended with a glass of Vinho Verde wine and a sampling of sardines. It was the perfect mid-day snack.
Who knew that canned fish could be so much fun and so delicious?

Felgueiras Vinho Verde Rosé. Crisp and dry, made from the Espadeiro grape. One of the few red grapes of the region. About two euros a bottle here in Porto. Eat your heart out Two Buck Chuck! 😉

Harvest in the Douro Valley.

I have said it before, and I am sure that I will say it many times more, the Douro wine region in Portugal is one of the most breathtaking in the world.

We had the good fortune to attend a harvest day at Quinta do Tedo this past September. And it was no end of fun. It also showed us how much work goes into harvesting grapes and making wine.
My hat is off to the owners, Vincent and Kay Bouchard because the amount of work required to make a good bottle of wine is staggering. Not to mention the manpower that is necessary to hand-pick fruit and process it. Much less running a successful Quinta with accommodations and a restaurant. Whew! Makes me tired just thinking about it.

Before going out into the vineyard to pick grapes, we were treated to a breakfast of hearty soup and pataniscas, which are cod fritters.
After this fortifying snack, we were armed with clippers and a bucket and went out into the vineyard. We picked grapes for about half an hour. And let me tell you, I would not want to have to do it all day. This is back-breaking labor.
After emptying our grape buckets, we walked back to the winery for a light lunch. A Feast is a more apt description. The table was a groaning board of Portuguese delicacies. Holy mother of yum! And all accompanied by the house red wine. Delicious.

After lunch, we went to the lagares, large stone vats, to stomp the grapes we had just picked. Again, it was fun for about an hour. We did get to sample some port wine while we were at it, which helped. Portugal is one of the only countries that still use foot treading to crush the grapes.
Workers typically stomp the grapes for about four hours at a time. Oy!

Quinta do Tedo Tawny Port, a shining example of the species!

After giving the grapes a good stomp, we took our newly purple feet back to the tasting room to sample more port wines. Divine is what they were. Ruby, Tawny, and Vintage, oh my! Port wine is a deep subject and one of the great Portuguese gifts to the world. The wines from Portugal are diverse and outstanding, as is the food. And after spending the better part of a day helping with the harvest, I appreciate them even more.

Thanks again to the Bouchards and their staff for a memorable and delectable experience.